Pashmina or Pashm is a Persian word which means “soft gold”. It accentuates and emphasizes the weather of softness, featherlight and everlasting warmth, making it really as precious and valueless like gold. It is a fine product attained from a breed of goats known as Chanthangi goat, which can be reared within the Tibetan area of 4000 meters in winter. The wool from this goat is specifically obtained from the undercoat of those goats. It’s six times finer than any animal hair, so fine the wool must be hand-spun by a skilled crafter, not by machines, which makes it rare and costly.
The Pashmina shawls existence has been from the Indus Valley civilization 3300 BC to Mohenjo Daro 2500 BC. What unfolded was when a famous priest of that era’s trefoil patterns was unveiled. Pashminas were worn by the royals and elites for centuries. Many fashionable aristocrats who have been in love with this material, naming few were Akbar, Jehangir and Josephine (spouse of Napoleon). It grew to become so popular when Napoleon discovered Pashmina, he gifted it to his wife Josephine. She was so happy with the material that she asked her husband to buy some more so she might present it to her friends. She was known to have collected more than 400 wraps over the span of three years. That is when it grew to become a method statement among the many Europeans. Centuries later it got here into limelight when Princess Dianna began wearing them. And now, the Hollywood celebrities are noticed wearing this stunning yarn.
The fifteenth century ruler of Kashmir, Zayn- Ul- Abidin who’s the founding father of the Pashmina trade launched weavers from central Asia where it was already in use as luxurious textile. Over the years a large number of shawls have been launched depending on the art, tradition and availability of handicrafts. A big part of this was dominated by the place this craft was being practiced at.
Undoubtedly its durability could be affirmed from the royal families that handed them down for generations. Nevertheless in at present’s date, one doesn’t must be regal to own a pashmina shawl, or even go to the high altitudes of Indian Kashmir, Pakistan and Nepal. At as we speak’s date they’re available at meritorious stores. The members of fashion fraternity around world use and own products made of pashmina starting from scarves, wraps, coats, pashmina shawls and stoles. It is a mark of the social and monetary status.
Process of Making Pashmina Thread
Animals shed their undercoat during spring molting season that is when Pashmina is collected. Thee goats start molting anytime from February to late Could depending upon the weather situations and region.
In India, the most important method of harvesting pashmina is combing . It is finished with using a particular type of comb. Pashmina is manually dusted to remove impurities like sand, mud, etc that may be stuck to it. The fleece is then sorted as per the color. The pure colours of the fiber being white, grey which is combined with darker shades like browns. The quality of the fiber primarily depends on its fineness, length, shade and down fiber content. Finer, longer and white pashmina generates better worth as compared to coarser, colored and shorter fiber.
The pashmina procurement is completed from all Changthangi Pashmina growers Affiliation in Leh Ladakh in India. The foremost chunk of which is sold and despatched to Srinagar and Kullu Valley for utilization. Subsequently in India raw pashmina fiber is 10-15 times more expensive than crossbred fine wool.
Pashmina is collected during the spring season when the goats naturally shed their winter coat. In dehairing, goats are combed to get the fine woolen undercoat hair. Goats typically produce double fleece which is mixture of fine hair and guard hair. Fine hair are separated by both by combing out the down or by using special equipments. The guard hair is removed fully earlier than processing. The presence of more than 5% guard hair impacts the looks, handle and quality of the ultimate products.
The wool is collected and undergoes the hand spinning process. The fiber is spun on a spinning wheel also known as Charkha locally known as yander. Before present process the spinning, raw material is treated by stretching and cleaning with the intention to remove all the dirt. Then it is soaked for a number of days in a mix of rice and water so as to reinforce its softness. Hand-spinning is a time consuming and painstaking process which requires a whole lot of dedication and patience.
Pashmina wool is a highly delicate material. The vibrations caused by the facility looms may be damaging to its fiber. Therefore, weaving of the customary one hundred% Pashmina Shawls is completed available looms. Weaving, which in itself is an art form, is finished utilizing a shuttle. This art has been passed over from generation to generation. A single shawl takes about 4 to five days to weave on a handloom.
Like spinning, dyeing is also carried out by hand. Azo-free and metal free dyes are used through the process to make these eco-friendly shawls. Pure water is pumped up from deep under the surface and dyeing is done at a temperature just below the boiling point of water for around an hour.
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