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Granite Help Tips And Brackets Guide

As a granite assist guide, in designs the place your countertop spans supports, the length of the span (side to side as your going through it) ought to be restricted to 24″ for ¾” (2CM) thick stone and 36″ for 1¼” (three CM) stone thicknesses.

For designs the place your countertop is cantilevered or overhangs the supports, overhanging portion ought to be restricted 16″ to 24″.

Granite assist requirements: Fragile stones may require corbels and helps which are spaced closer collectively and that don’t enable as a lot overhang than the specifications here.

Use granite countertop brackets when overhanging stone counters. Considering that granite, marble, and limestone can have overhangs weighing hundreds of kilos, and considering how brittle granite countertops might be, granite assist brackets are imperative. Quartz countertops usually do not want support.

Granite helps will be both useful, ornamental, or both depending on your granite countertop installation. And in contrast to laminate countertops that don’t require helps, natural stone countertops require some thought and understanding of why and the way they are going to be used. It’s best to let an knowledgeable akin to your granite fabricator determine the need. See Original Granite Bracket for professional help on hidden countertop support.

Are your granite countertop brackets robust enough? Make sure that the helps you choose are made of half” thick steel!

What size granite countertop assist brackets will you need?

The size of your granite assist legs and brackets shall be based mostly in your overhang . For instance, if your granite overhangs 12 inches past your 2 x four knee wall, subtract 2-4″ for the desired size of your assist bracket. In this case, an eight” or 10″ deep bracket is called for.

How to add support brackets to existing countertops

You should utilize entrance mounting brackets to add help for countertops which can be already put in, creating an open, floating countertop effect. When you’re coping with sheet-rock over studs on a knee wall, you can do the following:

* Remove the sheet-rock over the stud where the bracket will be mounted.

* Mount the bracket to the stud and be sure that the top of the bracket is degree with the beneathside of the granite. The horizontal plate of the bracket should be level. If vital, shim the bracket between the vertical plate and the stud, not on the horizontal plate.

* After putting in the bracket, use a “Fast Patch” sheet-rock kit to cover the bracket.

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Installing Floating Shelves – Types of Floating Shelf

A floating shelf is a shelf that has no seen mounting or supports showing and looks as if it is “floating” on the wall.

Types of Floating Shelf

If you want to fit a shelf of this type you’ve got several options:

Make your own: It is possible to make your own floating shelf from just a few basic materials. Although we don’t but have a project on this (we’ve got one in the pipeline) there are several good guides online, certainly one of which will be found here.

Buy a pre-made kit: As I’m sure you may be aware, pretty much every housestore, supermarket and DIY shed will stock a floating shelf kit. The kit normally features a wooden shelf section and a bracket. The bracket fixes to the wall and the shelf slides on

To these ends, in this project we are going to cover fixing a floating shelf kit to a wall.

Types of Wall Fixings for Floating Shelves

The primary job is to check the development of the wall and from here you’ll then know what type of fixings you will want:

Solid brick or masonry wall: For this you have to red wall plugs (for six – 10mm screws). If you would more data see our fixing to masonry partitions project here

Plasterboard and studwork wall: Ideally the most effective solution is to locate the vertical studs within the wall and screw directly into these though generally this isn’t possible. In these instances you have to to use either a Redidrive, spring toggle or nylon toggle fixing (as these tend to be the best at supporting weight). For information on the way to use these fixings see our fixing to plasterboard project

Fixing a Floating Shelf to a Wall

Upon getting decided your wall type and have acquired the right fixings to be used you’ll be able to progress to installing. For the needs of this project we will likely be fixing to a stable masonry wall so we will run through this process and cover related info for other fixings where required.

Check the Area with a Stud Detector

Earlier than drilling any holes it is a good idea to run over the area you are going to be drilling into with a stud, pipe and cable detector. This is a handy machine that detects any pipes or wires that may be buried within the wall so that you don’t inadvertently drill via them. Not only is this doubtlessly deadly but it is also very expensive!

Finding Plasterboard Vertical Studwork

After running over your set up area with the stud detector to check for wires and pipes the next job is to drill your fixing holes. In case you are fixing to a plasterboard wall, as said on the top of this project, essentially the most stable fixing is to screw straight into the vertical upright stud timbers.

You can use the affore talked about detector to find the edges of the studs and once you have, mark the edges on the wall with a pencil so that you realize exactly where the studs are.

Regardless of what surface you are fixing to you will need to drill some holes. Firstly, take your bracket and position it on the wall in the location that you want your shelf.

Using a pencil, mark the top left fixing hole so that you recognize the place to drill. Put the bracket to on side for now. Once more, relying on what it’s worthwhile to drill, choose the proper drill bit from the list under:

Masonry wall: For this you have to a 6mm masonry drill bit

Plasterboard and studwork: If you’re screwing into the stud then you will want to drill a small pilot hole. For this use a 2.5 – 3mm common or multi-function drill bit. In case you are drilling into the plasterboard, the drill bit required will rely on the type of fixing you might be using. This needs to be acknowledged on the packaging

Insert the require drill bit into a drill (will be both corded or wireless) and position the tip of the bit directly on the mark you made on the wall. Begin the drill off slowly and increase in pace because the bit bites into the surface. Drill to the required depth after which pull the drill bit out

Inserting the First Fixing

Before inserting the wall plug its a good idea to hoover out the dust and then take one among your red wall plugs and push it into the hole. If it doesn’t go all the best way in, faucet it in with a hammer.

As soon as the wall plug is in place, take your bracket and place the highest left fixing gap over the wall plug, insert a screw and screw it up, however not all of the way. Make it possible for the bracket can swing freely as you will need to move it around.

By way of what screws to use, for this job we have now used four x 30mm screws, possibly a little oversized but if they’re slightly bigger you may make sure that they are going to force the wall plug to broaden and chunk into the wall giving it a good anchor.

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